All Major Brands — LiftMaster, Chamberlain, Genie, Craftsman & More
Opener problems are tricky to diagnose without looking at the whole system. The issue might be the remote, the logic board, the trolley mechanism, the safety sensors, or — more often than people realize — the door itself. When the door is binding or the spring is gone, the opener looks broken when it's really just overwhelmed. We'll figure out which it is before quoting any work.
Describe what the opener is doing (or not doing) when you call — it helps us come prepared with the right parts.
A lot of "opener problems" turn out to be something else. If the motor runs but the door doesn't move, the trolley carriage has likely disconnected from the drive rail — or the door itself is jammed. If the door reverses right away after hitting the floor, the safety sensors or the limit settings need adjusting. If the remote stopped working, it could be as simple as a dead battery or a signal issue rather than a failed unit.
We start by looking at the whole system — door, springs, sensors, and opener — before concluding the opener needs to be replaced. Sometimes a $15 sensor fix saves a $300 replacement. We'll be straight with you about which it is.
Call (901) 410-0309Before assuming the opener is bad, check the battery. If that's not it, the remote may need to be reprogrammed, or the receiver in the opener may have failed. We'll confirm which and get it working again — or set you up with a new remote if needed.
This usually points to a disconnect between the trolley carriage and the door arm — often caused by the emergency release cord being pulled accidentally. Less often it's a broken trolley or stripped drive gear. We'll check both and fix the actual cause.
Safety sensors blinking, door stopping inches from the ground and reversing — these are usually a sensor alignment issue or a limit adjustment problem. We realign the sensors and calibrate the limit settings so the door closes cleanly every time.
The sensors at the bottom of the door track have to be aimed at each other precisely. If one is kicked, bumped, or blocked, the door won't close. We realign them, check the wiring, and confirm both sensors are communicating properly.
Openers over 15–20 years old may still run, but they're often slow, loud, and lacking modern safety features. If yours is struggling or giving out randomly, it may be more cost-effective to replace it than keep chasing failures. We'll be honest about which makes more sense.
We install modern openers — including belt-drive units compatible with MyQ and other smart home systems — and can add wireless keypads so you don't need a remote at all. Quieter operation is a common reason people upgrade even when their old opener still works.
Not sure whether yours needs repair or replacement? Tell us what it's doing and we'll help you figure it out over the phone, at no charge.
We work on all major residential opener brands: LiftMaster, Chamberlain, Genie, Craftsman, Linear, and others. Most of the parts we need for common repairs are on the truck. For less common units, we'll confirm parts availability before scheduling so you're not waiting around for a part that has to be ordered.
If your opener is a proprietary commercial or specialty unit, call and describe the brand and model — we'll tell you upfront whether it's something we can service or whether you'd be better served by the manufacturer's service network.
Call to Confirm Parts Availability: (901) 410-0309
Call or text. Describe what the opener is doing — or not doing — and we'll give you a price and a time to come out. Most opener calls are same-day or next-day.
We're available Mon–Sat, 8am to 6pm. If you text us the opener brand and what it's doing, we can often tell you the likely cause before we even get there.
